Question 1

Porcelain vs sandstone or concrete slabs — is porcelain actually worth the extra cost?

Accepted Answer

Yes — especially for long-term maintenance and UK weather durability. Traditional concrete flags or Indian sandstone are naturally porous: over a single wet winter they absorb water, attract green algae and black spot lichen, and degrade through repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Vitrified porcelain is almost non-absorbent — under 0.05% water absorption, against 1.5–8% for typical sandstone. It is impervious to BBQ grease, red wine, oils and leaf tannins; resists organic growth and washes clean with warm soapy water; carries an R11 anti-slip surface texture rated safe in wet conditions; and is completely UV-stable, so it will not fade, bleach or change tone. Porcelain costs a little more upfront and needs specialist diamond tooling and a bonding primer during installation — but it effectively eliminates the annual jet-washing, acid-washing and chemical sealing.

Question 2

How do you prepare the ground to stop patios and decking sinking?

Accepted Answer

A hard-landscaped surface is only as stable as the ground beneath it. The number one reason DIY or low-cost patios sink, crack or pull apart after two or three seasons is 'spot bedding' — slabs laid on five dabs of mortar — or laid straight over soil and sand. For patios, we excavate topsoil down to a stable, solid sub-grade (typically 150–200mm), lay a heavy-duty geotextile membrane to stop mud migration while maintaining drainage, then compact a minimum 100–150mm bed of MOT Type 1 in layers with a heavy vibrating plate to eliminate air pockets. Slabs are never laid on sand or spot dabs — they go onto a continuous 30–40mm full wet bed of sand-and-cement mortar. Because porcelain won't naturally adhere to mortar, the back of every tile is coated with a polymer-modified slurry primer, and the joints are finished with two-part epoxy or exterior resin grout that flexes with temperature change and stops weed penetration. For decking, sub-frames are anchored onto concrete post pads or heavy-duty adjustable polymer pedestals set on compacted MOT — never raw timber resting in wet earth. The ground below is sealed with commercial weed membrane and gravel ballast, frames are built from pressure-treated structural C24 with joist spans set strictly at 300–400mm centres to eliminate board bounce, and every joist top is sealed with weatherproof joist protection tape so standing rainwater can't rot the fixing screws.

Question 3

What warranties come with capped composite decking and fencing?

Accepted Answer

We install modern co-extruded (capped) composite systems, not entry-level hollow or uncapped plastic boards. Our premium capped decking ranges carry 15–25 year manufacturer limited warranties against structural splintering, cracking, fungal decay, rot and severe UV colour fading. Composite fencing is backed by 15–20 year structural anti-rot warranties — with no exposed organic timber fibres, the panels will not warp, snap or rot at ground level the way softwood fence panels do. In addition to the manufacturer material warranties, we provide a workmanship guarantee covering ground base stability, joist framing, fixing integrity and drainage falls.

Question 4

Can composite fencing handle high coastal or open winds?

Accepted Answer

Yes — when installed with the correct post specification. Standard wooden 3×3 or 4×4 posts rot at the ground line within 5–7 years, and the whole fence snaps in heavy gales. We anchor composite runs using deep-set, steel-reinforced composite posts or heavy-duty slotted aluminium posts, in holes excavated to a minimum 600–750mm and set with rapid-setting post concrete to form an immovable foundation. The tongue-and-groove boards slot securely into the post channel, distributing wind pressure evenly across the entire frame rather than stressing individual screws or panel clips — exactly what exposed coastal and hillside South Wales gardens ask of a fence.

Question 5

Does composite decking get hot in summer or slippery in winter?

Accepted Answer

In summer: like dark stone, tarmac or hardwood, any surface in direct midday sun absorbs heat. Capped composite's polymer shield reflects UV more efficiently than first-generation boards, but for open, unshaded south-facing gardens we generally recommend lighter or mid-tone shades — ash grey, oak, light teak — to keep surface temperatures comfortable underfoot. In winter: capped composite doesn't absorb water, so it doesn't support the algae growth that makes timber decking dangerously slippery. Combined with a textured woodgrain embossed finish, the boards keep reliable slip resistance year-round. Surface frost or freezing rain can still form on any outdoor floor — a simple sweep or light salt wash clears it without damaging the boards.

Service	Specification standard	Guide price (inc VAT)
Porcelain patio	Excavation, MOT Type 1 sub-base, primed porcelain slabs, slurry-backed, resin-jointed	£140 – £190 per m²
Composite decking	C24 structural frame, weed membrane, concealed fasteners, premium capped composite	£160 – £220 per m²
Composite fencing	Concrete-anchored posts, heavy-duty composite tongue-and-groove boards or panels	£150 – £210 per linear metre

Patios, Decking & Fencingin Swansea & South Wales

Porcelain & natural stone patios

Capped composite decking

Composite & slatted acoustic fencing

Groundworks & retaining features

Built to last 15–25 years

Every build, as standard.

Guide prices, honestly.

Answered straight, before you ask.

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